Bananas Don't Travel Well

For those interested in further information about the places and regions we are visiting, here are some books and films that we enjoyed.

Guidebooks

The travel guidebook industry has corporatized in recent years and, unsurprisingly, leaned toward the mediocre (or worse). Happily, a few smaller presses are covering some of the less touristy places. Among the guidebooks that we have used on this trip, the following stand out:

• Syria: A Historical and Architectural Guide, by Warwick Ball, Interlink, 2006. This guide provides an excellent summary of several thousand years of Syrian history and detailed background on specific archaeological sites. The author is an undisputed expert on the subject, and his enthusiam is contagious, if his prose is a bit rambling at times. But with such gems as "Old, Damascus undoubtably is" and "Who needs time machines?," how could anyone resist?
• Azerbaijan, with excursions to Georgia, by Mark Eliott, Trailblazer Guides, 2004. Although it could use an update, this book is outstanding in its coverage. The author has clearly been to every single place he writes about, and all the maps are handdrawn and chock full of landmarks and useful information.
• Turkmenistan, by Paul Brummell, Bradt Guides, 2006. Written by the former British Ambassador, whose fondness for the country is evident. Though he reportedly delegated many of his diplomatic functions to conduct his research, in such a closed country no-one else would have had the access to write such an in-depth book, and locals feel he has done them a great service.
• The Silk Roads: A Route and Planning Guide, by Paul Wilson, Trailblazer Guides, 2003. (Just our luck: a new version came out the day we left!) Though it covers everything from Syria to China, this book does an admirable job. We have supplemented it with other guides for more detail, but it remains a great overview of the Silk Roads and was indispensible in planning our trip.

Non-fiction

• Foreign Devils on the Silk Road: The Search for the Lost Cities and Treasures of Chinese Central Asia, by Peter Hopkirk, 1984. The story of the 19th century European adventurers who "discovered" (and, in many cases, carted away) the ancient treasures of the Silk Road in China and Central Asia. We read this over ten years ago, and it still leaves an impression today.
• The Great Game: The Struggle for Empire in Central Asia, by Peter Hopkirk, 1997. A fascinating account of the 19th century "cold war" betwen Russia and Britain as they vied for influence in Central Asia in ever more paranoid attempts to secure the prize of India's wealth. Provides some interesting insights to many of today's struggles.
• Seven Pillars of Wisdom: A Triumph, by T.E. Lawrence. Lawrence of Arabia's classic memoir, telling of his role in the Arab Revolt. His rambling self-indulgence makes it a bit of a chore, but you learn a lot about the Bedouin and the Middle East.
• Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World, by Jack Weatherford, 2005. An interesting revisionist history of Ghengis and his empire, in which the Mongols' accomplishments are highlighted, not just the destruction for which they are infamous. Though the tone is somewhat defensive, the book develops a convincing story of the first truly modern global society.
• The Prize: The Epic Quest for Oil, Money & Power, by Daniel Yergin, 1993. This might only appeal to energy nerds like me, but I include this history of the oil industry because many of the places on our route—Egypt, the Middle East, Baku—play host to it. The book was made into a PBS mini-series, which might be easier to digest.
• A Mountain in Tibet: The Search for Mount Kailas and the Sources of the Great Rivers of Asia, by Charles Allen, 1983. An account of the European explorers who set out to find the mythical mountain that did indeed turn out to be the source of five major rivers. Okay, so this isn't on the Silk Road, but we liked it anyways.

Fiction

• The Arabian Nights, translated by Husain Haddawy, 1990. The classic stories told by Scharzade, in a translation from the earliest extant version, free of the rascist overtones lended by earlier European translators.
• Flashman and Flashman at the Charge, by George MacDonald Fraser. Tongue-in-cheek (but historically accurate) memoirs of the swashbuckling scoundrel Sir Harry Flashman. The whole series is worth a read, but these two deal with Central Asia and the Great Game.
• Kim, by Rudyard Kipling. The classic Great Game novel and thrilling adventure story. According to Great Game historian Peter Hopkirk, the techniques used by "native" agents to explore and map the regions to India's north are accurately described.
• Any Tintin, by Herge.

Film

• Close to Eden (originally released as Urga), 1991. My favourite film of all time, that began my Central-Asia obsession. A Russian truck driver falls asleep at the wheel in Mongolia, gets lost, and is taken in by a Mongolian family. A beautiful film about freedom and the clash of cultures.
• The Story of the Weeping Camel, 2003. A documentary about a Mongolian family. Crisis strikes when one of their camels rejects her newborn calf. They travel to town to recruit a minstrel to bewitch her into accepting it. Not exactly action packed, but it's a wonderful story and great cast of characters.
• Schizo, 2004. Set in gritty post-independence Kazakhstan, this film is the story of a boy deemed "simple" by all those around him, but who ends up pulling a fast one on them all. The photography is brilliant, with some fascinatingly desolate scenes.
• Ghengis Blues, 2001. Blind bluesman Paul Pena travels to Tuva to compete in a throat-singing competition. It's as bizarre and wonderful as it sounds.
• The Mummy and The Mummy Returns. We just had to throw something silly in. Save these Egyptian adventure-archaeology movies for when you are too tired to watch anything challenging.
• Lawrence of Arabia, 1962. The classic, starring Peter O'Toole.
• The Man Who Would Be King, 1975. In this screen adaptation of a Rudyard Kipling story, Michael Caine and Sean Connery go off to Central Asia from 19th century India seeking adventure and wealth.
• Chungking Express, 1994. A Wang Kar Wai film set in the infamous Hong Kong firetrap and microcosm of illigal immigrants, sweatshops, Indian restaurants and cramped apartments where most backpackers stay.
• Eat, Drink, Man, Woman, 1994. One of Ang Lee's first films. The master chef at the Taipei Grand Hotel communicates with his three daughters through food. Good depiction of life in modern-day Taipei.